Fall gardening is essentially the opposite of spring gardening since the temperatures gradually go down instead of up. This means it is generally hot when you plant and hopefully cool when you pick. The order of succession for the crops planted is also the opposite.
Since autumn in East Texas is essentially a “second spring,” we can grow all the same crops again. However with our usual mid-November frost putting an abrupt end to the season for warm season vegetables, planting time is critical. Since it takes around 60 days for most summer squash, cucumbers, and green beans, August is as late as you want to attempt planting these.
Green beans require warms soils to germinate and cannot tolerate frosts, freezes, or hot temperatures so should be planted no later than August each year for a fall crop. Green beans form best when the temperatures are in the 70’s. After the seedlings establish themselves and have their first true leaves, thin the plants to 3-4 inches apart.
Green beans require at least 8 hours of direct sun each day. Beans are not picky about soil types but should be planted in areas that drain well. It is ideal to till several inches of compost or organic matter into the soil if possible and incorporate 2 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer (13-13-13, etc.) per 100 square foot of bed or every 35 feet of row. Organic fertilizers work just fine, but you will need to add more to get the same amount of nutrients. The ideal soil pH for growing green beans is 6.0-7.5, so liming every few in acidic East Texas is generally a good idea.
Green beans are direct seeded into the garden. Create a raised row about 6 inches high and 8-12 inches wide. Multiple rows should be around 36 inches apart. Open a shallow trench 1-2 inches deep with the corner of a hoe or a stick. Drop the seed several inches apart to insure a good stand. Cover lightly with loose soil using a hoe or garden rake. Make sure the seed is not too deep, or it will not germinate.
Check the progress of your green bean plants when they are 6-8 inches tall. If they are vigorous and healthy you do not need to do a thing. If they are pale green and not vigorous you will need to apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate their growth. Use 1 cup of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) or other high nitrogen fertilizer for every 35 feet of row. Sprinkle half of the fertilizer down each side of the row. Lightly work it into the soil and then water. This extra fertilizer application to boost the plants along is known as “side dressing.” Green beans are relative pest free, however watch for aphids, stinkbugs, spider mites, and rust, and treat when first noticed with a safe, appropriate, pesticide following all label directions.
Bush greens beans are generally ready to harvest about 56 days from seeding. Pole types take a bit longer. Green beans should be harvested when the pods are young and tender, 3-5 inches long, and before the seeds inside begin to bulge. It is better to pick them too small than too large. Harvest them at least every other day so the pods do not become tough and stringy.
Recommended varieties for Texas include Blue Lake (round), Contender (round), Derby (round), Tendergreen (round), Topcrop (round), Blue Lake-Pole (round), Jade-Pole (round), Kentucky Wonder-Pole (round), Greencrop (flat), Roma II (flat), and Purple Podded Pole (flat). Green beans are native to Central America.
— Greg Grant is the Smith County horticulturist and Master Gardener coordinator for the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service. He is the author of Texas Fruit and Vegetable Gardening, Texas Home Landscaping, Heirloom Gardening in the South, and The Rose Rustlers. You can read his “Greg’s Ramblings” blog at arborgate.com, read his “In Greg’s Garden” in each issue of Texas Gardener magazine (texasgardener.com), or follow him on Facebook at “Greg Grant Gardens.” More science-based lawn and gardening information from the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service can be found at aggieturf.tamu.edu and aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu.