How To Grow And Care For Redbuds

Redbud Care

Redbuds will adapt to many conditions. Most varieties aren’t fussy about soil type as long as it has good drainage. Redbuds look their best planted in full or partial sun and when provided with consistent moisture. These small flowering trees will put on a better show in full sun, but the leaves can scald in very hot, dry areas. Like many small trees, redbuds usually only live for about 20 years but sometimes survive for 50 years or more.

Light

As a general rule, plant your redbud in a spot where it receives at least four hours of direct sunlight each day. If you live in a milder climate like the Upper South, planting in full sun (at least six hours of sun exposure) will result in more even growth and more flowers. If your tree will face severe heat in the summer, light afternoon shade can help prevent scalding.

Soil

Most redbuds will tolerate average soil of any type except for heavy clay. The trees can adapt to acidic, neutral, or alkaline soils, though Western redbuds (C. canadensis var. orbiculata) and Texas redbuds (C. canadensis var. texensis) prefer alkaline or neutral soil. Redbuds do not do well in poorly drained or constantly wet soils. Most redbud trees appreciate consistent moisture, but there are exceptions for dryer areas discussed below.

Water

The aforementioned subspecies commonly called Western redbud, Arizona redbud, or California redbud can handle occasionally dry soil, as can Texas redbud (C. canadensis var. texensis) and Mexican redbud (C. canadensis var. mexicana). These trees often grow in rocky, dry soils in their natural habitat.

But most redbud trees do best with consistent moisture and do not tolerate drought. As a general rule, water your tree deeply (until the ground is fully saturated) a couple of times a week until it is established, and continue watering during dry spells thereafter. Apply 1-2 inches of wood mulch or 3-4 inches of pine straw to help preserve moisture (but don’t pile mulch against the trunk, which can lead to infestation and disease).

Temperature And Humidity

Hardy to Zone 9, redbud trees can be grown in most of the South. Provide afternoon shade if your garden endures very hot summers, such as in southern Alabama or northern Florida. Know that this tree is more likely to appreciate a humid climate over a dry one. Plant a Texas redbud like ‘Oklahoma’ or ‘Texas White’ if you live in a dry climate. If you live in Zone 5, try an Eastern redbud (C. canadensis) bred for colder climates.

Fertilizer

Though redbud trees do not require fertilizing, they will benefit from an annual application of slow-release tree and shrub fertilizer in early spring (follow the instructions on the product label).

Types Of Redbuds

Eastern Redbud (C. canadensis)

Zones US, MS, LS, CS; 4–9. This tree is native to the eastern U.S. The fastest growing and largest (to 25–35 feet tall) of the redbuds, it is most apt to take a rounded tree form. Leaves are usually rich green, 3–6 inches long, with pointed tips. Flowers are small (1/2-inch long) and rosy pink or lavender. Water regularly during dry spells.

Eastern redbud is valuable for bridging the color gap between the early-flowering fruit trees (flowering peach, flowering plum) and the crabapples and late-flowering dogwoods and cherries. Plant it as a specimen or understory tree.

Available selections include the following:

• ‘Alba’: ‘Alba’ has white blossoms.
• ‘Appalachian Red’ (‘Appalachia’): The flowers are deep pink—not a true red but close to it.
• ‘Covey’: This is a dwarf weeping selection with unusual zigzagging, twisting branches. It has lavender flowers and leaves slightly larger than those of the species. The plant reaches 4 feet high, 7 feet wide at 40 years old.
• ‘Flame’: This variety has double pink blooms.
• ‘Forest Pansy’: Foliage emerges a gaudy purple in spring, then gradually changes to dark green as summer heat increases. This variety has rosy purple flowers and makes a nice color accent; it benefits from afternoon shade in summer.
• ‘Rubye Atkinson’: This tree bears pure pink flowers.
• ‘Silver Cloud’: ‘Silver Cloud’ has leaves marbled with white.
• ‘Tennessee Pink’: This tree bears true pink flowers.

Texas And Mexican Subspecies

MEXICAN REDBUD (C. c. var. mexicana): Zones 6–9. This redbud grows in many areas of Mexico. The most typical form is single-trunked, to 15 feet with leathery blue-green leaves and pinkish-purple flowers. Requires moderate water but can handle occasional dryness.

WESTERN, CALIFORNIA, or TEXAS REDBUD (C. c. var. texensis): Zones 6-9. Native to the Southwest, this redbud grows to 15–25 feet high and wide. The tree takes moderate water and is more drought-tolerant. ‘Oklahoma’ has deep purple buds opening to rosy-purple flowers; ‘Texas White’ bears pure white blossoms. Both have thick, leathery dark green leaves.

Chinese Redbud (C. chinensis)

Zones 6–9. Native to China and Japan, this species grows mostly as an open shrub to 10–12 feet tall, 10 feet wide. Flower clusters are 3–5 inches long, deep rose, almost rosy purple. Leaves (to 5 inches long) are sometimes glossier and brighter green than those of C. canadensis, with a transparent line around the edge. ‘Avondale’ is a superior form with profuse deep purple flowers. This redbud requires full sun and regular water.

Judas Tree (C. siliquastrum)

Zones 6–9. Native to Europe and western Asia, Judas tree is typically a shrubby plant to 25 feet tall and wide, but occasionally a taller, slender tree with a single trunk. It has purplish rose, 1/2-inch-long flowers and 3-5-inch leaves, deeply heart-shaped at the base and rounded or notched at the tip. Judas tree requires moderate to regular watering, but in well-drained soil. ‘Alba’ is a white-flowering form.

Pruning

Diseased or damaged branches can be pruned from the tree anytime. Using sharp pruners or loppers, cut just before a healthy bud on the branch or just to the branch collar, the swollen area where it meets the trunk.

Many redbuds start as multi-stemmed plants. If you would like to grow your plant to grow as a single-stemmed tree, remove all but the straightest and strongest stem. You can also choose to retain the most attractive two or three stems and remove the others. Remove any suckers that sprout at the base of the tree or on a limb.

Propagating Redbuds

Redbuds are loaded down with seed pods every year, a handful of which may sprout around your garden. Unfortunately, the long taproot makes these trees difficult to transplant. Redbuds also are difficult to grow from cuttings. Instead, you can try germinating the seeds in a pot for planting later using the steps provided below.

Growing Redbuds From Seed

In order to germinate the seeds, you must break through the hard seed coat (scarification) and expose the seed to winter temperatures (cold stratification). The seedlings you grow likely won’t look the same as the mother plant, and could take four or five years to mature enough to bloom. Follow these steps to propagate your redbud tree:

1. Collect brown, dry pods in the fall and remove the seeds.
2. Submerge your seeds in boiling water for one minute to break through the seed coat.
3. Bury the seeds in a moist mixture of sand and peat moss in a small, plastic container. Cover with a lid that has one or two holes punched for a bit of airflow.
4. Place the container in an environment that is between 35 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit for five to eight weeks—usually in your refrigerator.
5. Remove the seeds and plant in potting soil 1/4 inch deep for germination. Place in a warm spot in your home. Water so that the soil stays moist.

Overwintering

Redbuds generally don’t need winter protection in the South. A couple of inches of mulch can help regulate moisture levels and soil temperature year round.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Though most plant diseases only afflict redbuds for a season or two, two types of fungal infections can slowly kill your tree by blocking the vascular system so that the tree can’t drink. Verticillium wilt can enter your redbud from the soil or a wound, including from pruning cuts. Leaves begin to turn yellow and brown until branches begin to die off one by one. Always sanitize your pruning tools to prevent the spread of disease, and remove any dead branches. If the tree shows signs of infection, water the tree deeply and frequently during warm dry periods to keep it healthy. Fertilize the tree in spring.

Redbuds are also susceptible to canker from a Botryosphaeria fungus. Symptoms include wilting and browning leaves and cankers or dark sunken spots on the branches. The disease can be spread by splashing water and wind. Prune out infested branches when you find them, cutting at least 3 or 4 inches below each canker.

Keeping your tree healthy in the first place can help it resist infection. If you lose a tree to one of these fungal infections, don’t plant another redbud in that location.

Insects are to be expected on any tree, but if you notice widespread damage from a severe infestation of scales (oval, sometimes cottony leaf-sucking insects) or caterpillars, you can apply horticultural oil to keep the population under control.

Common Problems With Redbuds

Redbuds are beautiful and worthwhile trees to plant in the garden, but tend to be short-lived and can decline from disease. To preserve the tree’s health, select a prime location where it is protected from excessive heat, lawnmower and weed whacker damage, and herbicides and pesticides. Here are a couple of common problems you may run into with your tree.

Curling Leaves

Redbud leaves will curl up during hot, dry weather or when the plant can’t take in adequate moisture. Sometimes the leaves will begin to crisp on the edges. Make sure to water deeply at least once a week during dry spells, especially for trees that aren’t as established. In hot, dry climates, the tree may appreciate light afternoon shade.

Spotted Leaves

Redbud leaves can be afflicted with fungi, but this usually isn’t a serious problem. Rake fallen leaves to discourage infection in subsequent years, fertilize in spring, and water the base of the tree during dry weather.